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Home Security Assessment Guide
A home security assessment turns an overwhelming topic into a structured review of your property — entry points, barriers, visibility, and deterrence. Whether you use the free Home Security Planning tool or walk through this checklist yourself, the goal is the same: find gaps before an opportunist does.
Key recommendations
- Record lock type on every external door — deadlock or equivalent versus handle latch only.
- Assess every entry point reachable from outside — doors, windows, garage connections, pet doors, and outbuildings.
- Review lighting, perimeter access, alarms, and CCTV as connected layers, not isolated gadgets.
- Use your score and ranked next steps to prioritise high-impact gaps first.
Who should read this guide?
- First-time users of Home Security Planning
- Homeowners preparing for a property review
- Renters mapping what they can improve
- Anyone wanting a structured security checklist
Supporting information
1. Why a structured assessment matters
Most homeowners know they should "be more secure" but struggle to know where to start. Burglaries are often opportunistic — offenders choose targets that look quick and quiet to enter. A structured home security assessment walks you through the property categories the tool actually measures: how someone could get in, how visible they would be, and what would slow or deter them.
Without a checklist, it is easy to over-invest in one area — a flashy camera, for example — while leaving a rear door with only a latch lock. An assessment surfaces those imbalances and gives you a prioritised path forward rather than a shopping list of unrelated gadgets. Pair this overview with layered home security, how burglars choose targets, and the Home Security Score explainer.
2. Walk your property like an offender would
Start outside. Walk the full perimeter — front, sides, and rear — and note every way someone could reach your home without passing a locked barrier. Look for concealed paths, unlit corners, tall fences that hide activity, and windows at ground level behind shrubs. Map those routes with side and rear access security.
Ask: If I wanted to get inside without being seen, where would I try? That mindset is uncomfortable but useful. It shifts focus from what you have bought to what actually protects each opening — the same mindset the online questionnaire expects when you answer honestly.
3. Exterior doors and related entry points
External doors are among the most common burglary routes. In the assessment, you first count exterior doors, then answer detail questions for each — including screens, construction, visibility, and glass near the lock. For each door reachable from outside, check:
- Lock type — is there a deadlock or equivalent, or only a handle latch?
- Frame, strike plate, and hinges — are they solid enough to resist kicking or prying?
- Glass nearby — could someone break a panel and reach a thumb turn or handle?
- Screen or security door — flyscreen only, security mesh, or none?
- Garage connection — is the internal garage-to-house door secured like a main entry?
- Pet doors — could a flap or insert create a reachable opening?
Do not forget sliding patio doors and laundry entries. Side and rear doors are frequently weaker because they are less visible from the street — exactly what many offenders prefer.
4. Windows and accessible openings
Ground-floor and easily reached windows need the same attention as doors. The assessment asks about window locks, common window styles, external protection (such as security screens or shutters), and glazing. Check whether each accessible window has a working lock, whether sliding windows have secondary blocks or pins, and whether flyscreens are mistaken for security barriers.
Upper windows near flat roofs, balconies, or stacked outdoor furniture may be more reachable than they appear. Security screens or restrictors can help where full ventilation is needed. Louvre windows and older catches are common weak points — note any that cannot be locked securely.
5. Lighting and visibility
Good exterior lighting removes hiding places and signals that a property is maintained. The assessment asks how much of the exterior is lit at night, plus detail on motion-sensor coverage and overall brightness. Review lighting at front entries, driveways, side paths, and rear yards.
Visibility works both ways. Trim vegetation blocking sight lines from the street or neighbours. Consider whether fences and walls that give you privacy also conceal someone at your back door. Balance privacy with natural surveillance — offenders prefer targets where they will not be seen.
6. CCTV and alarms
CCTV and alarms support deterrence, detection, and evidence — but they do not physically stop entry if a door or window is weak. The assessment covers these as separate sections: whether cameras are visible, coverage and count where relevant, whether an alarm is installed, type, monitoring, and whether alarm or CCTV signage is visible.
Note whether cameras cover main approaches and whether blind spots exist at side gates or rear paths. Visible cameras can deter; hidden ones may capture evidence but miss the prevention benefit. An alarm that is rarely armed offers limited value — answer based on what is fitted and usable today.
7. Perimeter, outbuildings, and environmental factors
The perimeter section asks whether fencing and gates limit easy access, plus related detail such as side-gate strength, driveway gates, and whether shrubs or hedges are kept trimmed around doors and windows. Solid fences, locked side gates, and clear boundaries signal that access is controlled.
Where they apply, the assessment also covers sheds and outbuildings — large stores that can hide tools or provide a quieter approach to the house. Treat outbuilding doors and windows as part of the same review, not as optional extras.
Mail buildup, empty bins, or posts that advertise absences can still affect how targeted a home appears, but they are not a separate questionnaire category in Home Security Planning. Practical holiday and package guidance lives in related Information Series articles; the assessment itself stays focused on physical property layers you report.
8. How the Home Security Planning assessment works
After you select your locality for official crime context, the free online assessment guides you through a fixed section order that matches the production tool:
- Exterior door count and per-door details (locks, screens, construction, visibility, glass)
- Garage access when applicable
- Pet doors
- Sheds and outbuildings when applicable
- Windows
- Lighting (visibility)
- Perimeter (fences, gates, concealment)
- CCTV
- Alarms
- Budget preference — shapes which upgrades are prioritised, not a security layer itself
Your answers produce a Home Security Score, a layer breakdown, ranked next steps, and a PDF report you can download. There is no separate “daily habits & occupancy” category covering keys, mail, social media, or routines.
You can start straight away without creating an account. Answer honestly based on what is fitted today, not what you plan to install someday. Re-run the assessment after upgrades to track progress. Most homes finish in under five minutes.
9. After the assessment — what to do next
Review your recommendations in priority order. High-priority items typically address fundamental physical gaps — locks on main entries, accessible windows, or dark concealed paths. Schedule those first, whether DIY or with a tradesperson.
Share your PDF report with household members so everyone understands locking routines and how alarms or cameras are meant to be used. Renters can use it to support reasonable upgrade requests to landlords. Homeowners can keep it as a baseline for annual reviews or before extended holidays.
Security improves incrementally. You do not need to fix everything at once — but you do need to start somewhere visible to an offender. The assessment tells you where that is.
FAQ
How long does a home security assessment take?
The Home Security Planning online assessment typically takes under five minutes for most homes. Walking your property beforehand to note doors, windows, lighting, and any garage or outbuildings helps you answer accurately without guessing.
Do I need to own my home to complete an assessment?
No. Renters benefit too. The assessment identifies gaps and suggests measures many tenants can action — or discuss with a landlord — such as portable alarms, lighting, window restrictors, and stronger locking habits on doors and windows you already control.
What if I am not sure about my lock types?
Take a close look at each external door. A deadlock has a separate key-operated bolt; a latch retracts when you turn the handle. If unsure, note the brand on the lock face and check the manufacturer's website, or ask a locksmith when quoting upgrades. The assessment also offers an Unsure option where you need it.
Should I assess my home during the day or at night?
Both perspectives help when you prepare. Daylight makes it easier to inspect hardware and vegetation. After dark, check which approaches are lit and which paths are hidden. The online assessment itself asks about exterior lighting and visibility based on what you observe.
Does the assessment replace a professional security inspection?
No. It is a structured self-review and planning tool based on your answers. For complex properties, new builds, or insurance requirements, a qualified locksmith or security installer may still be worth engaging for an on-site inspection.
Sources
This guide draws on widely published burglary prevention advice. It is not a substitute for manufacturer instructions, local building rules, or professional security advice.
- Police home security self-assessment and checklist guidance
- Crime prevention agency layered security models
- Government publications on residential break-in prevention priorities
Review your property in context
Start the free home security assessment — your Home Security Score, ranked next steps, and a PDF report to save or share. No sign-up required.
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